There are a few things that cause our wiper blades to deteriorate.

•   Heat. On a nice summer day the temperature on your windshield could reach over 145 degrees F.  This slowly roasts the rubber of the wiper blade and causes them to crack. Cracks are what causes streaks and “chattering” to occur. 

•    Ozone.  The ozone in the atmosphere, which is highly concentrated in high traffic areas, oxidizes the rubber and leads to cracking.
•    Cold.  Lest we forget, summer will come to an end and then we will be hit with cold temperatures.  The cold air hardens the rubber and allows water to seep under it which causes smearing.

Windshield wipers were first patented in 1905 by Mary Anderson, since then there has been only one change.  In the past 10 years, a new wiper has come out, the flat bladed wiper.  These wipers are held down with uniform pressure compared to previous wipers which only had pressure points.  These new blades are also more streamlined and smaller than their predecessors.  And if your car didn’t come with these great new wiper blades, don’t worry! Most now have adapters to fit them on any car!

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To get the most out of a battery, The Car Care Council suggests the following:

• Be sure the electrical system is charging at the correct rate; overcharging can damage a battery as quickly as undercharging.
• If your battery is the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot weather. Add distilled water when necessary.
• Always replace a battery with one that’s rated at least as high as the one originally specified.
• Keep the top of the battery clean. Dirt becomes a conductor, which drains battery power. Further, as corrosion accumulates on battery terminals it becomes an insulator, inhibiting current flow.

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                Cooling

                Braking

                Emission control

                Steering and Suspension

                Fuel      

                Electrical and Ignition

You should also have your tires/wheels, A.C./heater, windshield wipers and seatbelts checked before you leave.

Not only can this ‘physical’ help reduce the chance of a costly and dangerous roadside problem; it gives you the chance to have any needed repairs done with the technicians and shop you know and trust.

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Getting your Air-Conditioning system to work perfectly requires a number of things to work in unison. From the Freon charge level to your electric fan in front of your condenser, that’s the radiator looking thing in front of your radiator, or the condition of your belt that drives the compressor…all have to be working properly or your system will not work to its optimum.

So, wether you drive a BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Porsche, Jaguar or even a Land Rover,  your cocoon should be able to throw 65 degree air out of the vents,  if not, then your A/C cooling system needs attention. It could need a charge or cleaning of the condenser of debris and leaves left behind from the fall.

Autoscope would be glad to look at it for you.

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This time of year we have all been rained on and driven through moving water. What we really need to think about as the world dries out a little is whether that water has hurt our car. The Car Care Council has a list of things to check to make sure nothing has damaged your car.

• Check interior carpets, upholstery and door and trim panels for dampness. If they are wet, then the vehicle will need professional attention. If you simply let the carpet dry, it will quickly grow mildew and give off nasty odors. Seat brackets, motors and modules should also be checked for rust and proper operation.
• Pull the engine oil and transmission fluid dipsticks and differential plug. If the fluid appears milky, diluted, is no longer its original color or is beige in color, then it is likely the pans contain water. The vehicle should be towed to your ASE-certified technician or repair shop. Driving the vehicle with water present may damage the internal parts and require extensive overhaul or repairs. The council reminds motorists that some new synthetic differential fluids may appear to be milky but are not water contaminated. When in doubt, a professional automotive technician should make the evaluation.
• Check the air filter for water. If it is wet, replace the air filter and change the oil.
• Check the undercarriage, bumpers, radiator area and frame for mud, grass, dirt, debris and rust. If any of these are present, the vehicle should be washed and cleaned as soon as possible.
• Have the brake system checked by a professional automotive technician.
• Check the exterior lights for moisture and water. Replace headlights and bulbs that contain water.
• Listen for abnormal noises while the engine is running. Make a note of where the noise is coming from and take the vehicle to a professional automotive technician as soon as possible. Pay particular attention to the alternator, serpentine belt, starter, power steering unit, air conditioner and wheel bearings.
• Inspect the suspension joints and lubricate as necessary. Many newer vehicles are lubricated at the factory for life; however, these joints should be checked for rust.

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Well, the answer depends on how hot the car is to start with, in what condition is your car’s Air conditioning system and what process you use to cool it down after you start the car. If your car is parked under the sun all day, the temperatures are most likely well over a 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

Presuming that your A/C system is working properly, here is the quickest way to get your car’s interior to cool down. Do not drive with your windows down until you reach a temperature you think is cool, that just delays the cooling process. After the initial venting, by opening the door for thirty seconds, the intense, built-up heat is depleted, however, it still feels very hot due to the interior surfaces radiating stored heat. Start the car and turn the A/C on, with the fan on high speed (with Automatic climate controls, this will be done by default, provided you have it on “Auto” setting) and the the windows up, closed completely.

Leaving the windows down, will actually take longer to cool your car’s interior. The system will vent outside air in and cool it down as quickly as possible by using the car’s engineered air-flow system along with the cold air, now being generated by the A/C compressor. Once you get the temperature down to a relative (less-hot) state, then you can turn the “MAX” switch or the “Recirc” position, which will recycle the relative cool air inside the car, driving down the interior temperature even further.

If the interior temperatures do not start cool down within three to five minutes, you’ve most likely have a problem. Autoscope recommends that you have your A/C system checked annually, before it starts to give you trouble.

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Dangers of Potholes

Almost everyone has hit a pothole, especially in Dallas. Potholes can be very wearing on your car, and it isn’t always easy to know if real damage has happened. The Car Care Council has a few warning signs that will help you determine if the pothole hurt your car.

• Loss of control, swaying when making routine turns, bottoming-out on city streets or bouncing excessively on rough roads. These are indicators that the steering and suspension may have been damaged. The steering and suspension are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling. Key components are shocks and/or struts, the steering knuckle, ball joints, the steering rack/box, bearings, seals and hub units and tie rod ends.
• Pulling in one direction, instead of maintaining a straight path, and uneven tire wear. These symptoms mean there’s an alignment problem. Proper wheel alignment is important for the lifespan of tires and helps ensure safe handling.
• Low tire pressure, bulges or blisters on the sidewalls, or dents in the rim. These problems will be visible and should be checked out as soon as possible as tires are the critical connection between your car and the road in all sorts of driving conditions

If you notice any of these, please do not wait on having the car inspected by a technician, they could lead to bigger and more dangerous problems with time!

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Exterior:

• Wiper blades play an extremely important role in increasing visibility. Replace every six months or when cracked, cut, torn, streaking or chattering.
• Check the tires. A simple test to check tire tread depth is to insert a penny into the tread of the tire. If the top of Lincoln’s head sticks out, your tires are starting to show signs of wear and should be replaced. Also check the tire inflation and inspect the tread for uneven wear, which could indicate the need for a wheel alignment. Also look for bulges and bald spots.
• Give your car a good washing from top to bottom. Use a product specifically made for automobiles. Always clean the tires and wheels before washing the body, and don’t use the same mitt for both.
• If you find minor paint damage, cover the paint chips as quickly as possible. For a quick fix until you can get some touchup supplies, dab a little clear nail polish on the scratch.
• Spring is an excellent time for waxing, which not only protects the finish but also makes subsequent washing easier. Before proceeding, make sure there are no foreign particles on the paint.

Under the Hood:

• A good rule of thumb is that a change of season equals a change of oil. Changing your car’s oil and filter every six months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first, will ensure that your car operates at peak efficiency.
• Get a tune-up if necessary. As part of the 21st Century Tune-Up on today’s modern vehicles, the following systems should be inspected: battery, charging and starting, engine mechanical, powertrain control (including onboard diagnostic checks), fuel, ignition and emissions.
• Check all fluids. There are several fluids that require attention, including engine oil, power steering fluid, brake and transmission fluids, windshield washer solvent and antifreeze/coolant. The antifreeze/coolant may need to be refreshed every three years.
• Check hoses and belts. A belt that fails can affect the electrical system, air conditioning and power steering, as well as the cooling system. Cooling system hoses may be deteriorating from within, so old hoses and clamps that appear to be in marginal condition may need to be replaced. 

Under the Vehicle:

• Spring is a good time to check the entire brake system, including brake linings, rotors and drums.
• Check the shocks or struts for signs of physical damage, such as leaking, rusting, or dents. Also be aware of the warning signs that you may need them replaced: vehicle rolls or sways on turns, front end dives when braking, rear end squats when accelerating, vehicle sits lower in the front or rear, a loss of directional control during sudden stops, and the vehicle bounces or slides sideways on a winding and rough road.
• If you notice any fluid puddles or stains under your vehicle, it is a good idea to have it inspected. There are several fluids that can leak from the vehicle including antifreeze/coolant, battery acid, brake fluid, clear water, fuel, engine oil, gear oil, power steering fluid, shock and strut fluid, transmission fluid and windshield washer fluid.

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